Hello,
I have a 2010 Sierra 4x4 CC that I recently put an Forged LS7 with a whipple at 14PSI in and re-did the tranny to supposedly handle it. The 6l80 was a "Phoenix" build and you can see what the build shows on their website page. The only difference is the converter I have is the large single disc 2000rpm stall instead of the multi-disc. This is the second time the transmission has been built due to slipping clutches early in its life, this one about 2500 miles. And not driven hard. Never raced WOT. I have the tune from the builder in the T43 TCM now and it just started slipping 4-5-6 under power again. I did not ride it hard so im not sure if the tranny has to come out for yet another reclutching. Trans temps on this tune always ran cool, only saw 200 degress F once and i had to do alot of stop and go to get there. It would cool down in lock up back to 130-ish degrees in about 5-10 miles.
If I have to pull it again then so be it. I'm thinking of going back to a stock converter instead of the stall since I do not really need it with the torque this engine puts out.
My questions are, with a "built" transmission , would a stock converter hold up and still be able to make a civilized shift? This is a daily driver, but I do like to lay into it now and then. I am not abusive to the truck and know how to avoid the "shock" loads to the drive line (i.e. not just mashing the loud pedal from idle).
If I added 5% or 10% to the MAF table, is that and acceptable way to change the scale or is that covering something else up? I'm thinking the air tube for the supercharger messed with the maf signal.
I have HP tuners and EFI live, both commercial versions. This is still being run with flex fuel enabled. I use EFI more and not real familiar with HP yet, but I can adapt very quickly with some direction. I'm convinced that the tune for the engine is off. Whipple's tune did not run well at all and probably attributed to the first failure of the transmission. I had to scale the MAF up to get the LTFT's to an acceptable position. if i added anything to the VE table to richen things up, the LTFT would not change. Anyway, the engine runs well now, and could probably be better, but I'm not convinced I have done this the right way. I need someone who knows engine tuning as well as the tranny. Looking for some direction in getting this all sorted out. I have NO tuners in the area that have a clue about this combo.
Since I'm running into the slip issue, What would my first steps be? Pull the tranny, rebuild, and start from scratch? Send you the tunes? (i would have to re-pull with HP if you need the files in HP). I'm scared to even run it now to be honest. I have lost thousands in this endeavor already. And the funny part is the stock tranny never gave me an issue. I just modded the transmsission for extra reliability and longevity. Yeah, so far, that's worked really well... :(.
Hopefully you are up for this task.
List of mods to start with:
LS7 427 forged, 10.82:1
LS3 Heads
OBX headers
Dual 3" exhaust - no cats
Whipple 2.3L, 14 psi max.
Stock fuel system
80LB injectors
Running on Flex Fuel OS
Transmission:
6l80E "Phoenix" transmission (list of mods on PATC website)
2000 Billet single clutch disc Conveter from PATC